To: email@example.com Subject: Re: [rro] Classic upper tailgate
I just did this to my rover, I got the aluminum powdercoated frame that you transfer the old glass into, I forget who from (GBR?)
My experience: sealing the glass is messy and annoying. It might be worth taking it to a glass place to have them do the job right the first time. Use black silicone sealant, not clear. Easier to spot when you mess up. Wear gloves and mask off the center of the glass so as not to leave black silicone fingerprints all over it.
Getting the glass out of the old tailgate is a whore.
My old latch/handle set was so rusted out that I got a new one from the dealer.
I could not, despite *much* adjustment, get the latches to stay closed after I installed the replacement tailgate. I'm sure the tolerances are such that this varies truck to truck, but I couldn't get it to work with mine. I installed some external rubber tiedowns that work fine.
One of the holes for the strut ball mounts were in the wrong place, but drilling new ones was trivial.
On your existing tailgate there's some metal flashing that conceals the latch mechanisms and taillight wiring. Some of this transfers over easily and some of it doesn't. Some of mine was in such poor condition that I didn't bother.
It certainly looks a lot nicer. Remember to be gentle with it, it's relatively soft aluminum, and you will strip out holes if you're too hard on it.
Peter Woolvin wrote: > > The upper tailgate on my 1990 Range Rover is rusting away, also the side > latches have all siezed up and do not latch properly. > > It is possible to buy an aluminium frame in UK. Just need to swap parts from > my old frame and fit some new parts. > > I have some feedback that they are OK. They cost #185. Before I order one, > does anyone else have any experience of these ? > > thank you, > > Peter Woolvin, > 1990 3,9 RR (UK).
I bought one from Allmakes (through Europarts). I bought it with the glass (I recommend this option vs. using your old glass) and purchased new outer latches. It was not cheap, but it looks and works great. I paid about $400 US.
I also replaced my frame with an aluminum unit using the old glass. As already mentioned, it's very difficult to get the old frame apart and the mastic removed from the glass...but it is possible. I used a hack saw to split the frame into sections. My tendency was to use metal tools to pry the frame off, and that must be done carefully or you might break the glass. To remove the gasket material I tried solvents, heat, and sharp knife blades. The latter worked best, but one slip could mean a serious cut. My replacement unit, now about four-five years old, has shed the powder coating in some areas, especially around the handle, so I recommend painting or using silicone to cover all raw screw holes. I also replaced a latch mechanism and transfered the other old parts to the new frame.
Adjusting the upper tailgate latches:
Alright, since you asked...
The two rods that extend out from the central handle mechanism are the secret.
Don't mess with the locating pins on the body, they are where they're supposed to be (remember they worked perfectly at one time, right?).
There is an adjustment mechanism at each end of the rods that is threaded, one is a loooooong hex bolt with a tiny nut next to it. Back off the tiny nut, mess with the long bolt adjusting it in or out. I can't remember which way does what, but you'll figure it out quickly.
Once you get the one side to shut and stay shut, tighten up that lock nut and move to the other side. Repeat procedure. Now, go back and re-adjust the first side (it'll probably need it).
BTW, the two adjusting rods are underneath the cover plate that's held on with the phillips sheet metal screws.
Also, the plastic plunger will sometimes crack and fail and you won't be able to open your rear tailgate. I have not found anyone that will sell just that piece alone (dealer wants to sell you the whole handle), so a wrecking yard to get the entire handle would be the best bet.