Range Rover - Alternators


Some  Approaches to using a Delco Alternator on your Range Rover:

Solution #1  by John Lewis
Solution #2 by Ashfaq Ali
Solution#3 by Trent
Solution#4 by Michael Slade

Solution #1-

I grabbed this alternator page from www.rangerovers.net so I wouldn't  lose this information.

Thanks John Brabyn and John Lewis.


Here is what John Lewis did to put a Delco alternator on his Range Rover

After installing a Delco on my Series, decided to do it on the Range Rover
too. For both I bought the same Delco as used on my Motorhome, just picked
one for an 84 GM P-30 chassis. It's 94 amp.

For the Range Rover I made an adapter bracket from the stock one to the
Delco. It was a simple "H" bracket that mounted on the outside of the stock
one, and was spaced so the Delco aligned with the stock pulley. No cutting
or welding was needed on the stock one. The adjustment arm had to be
extended though, but that was not a big deal.

Wiring is simple with the Delco too.

Heavy brown battery lead attaches to the Delco "Battery" terminal.

Then, for the two spade terminals on the side, the #2 goes to "bat" terminal
(I just took an inline fuse and attached one end to the spade terminal, the
other to the "Bat" terminal.)

#1 goes to the warning light, which is the small brown and yellow wire.

The white / slate wire is the tachometer. Turns out that the alternator I
bought already had an extra little terminal on it for the tach. However, if
yours doesn't, you can add one. Just open the alternator and attach a wire
on one of the three screw terminals. It's hard to describe, but if you open
the old Lucas one, and the Delco, you will see that they are similar and
it's easy to see how the tach wire connects. One note is that the pulley
diameter of the Delco is probably different than the Lucas, so the tach will
read a bit off, but it will work.

I put the old capacitors back in the same place they came off the Lucas.

Anyway, that's about it. I heard of one person who found that the double
pulley alternator bolted right on the stock bracket and the outer pulley
lined up. However, I understand that not all Rover brackets are the same,
so it isn't always that simple.

One minor thing is that the Delco doesn't seem to put out as much at lower
RPMs. Never had a problem even off-roading and idling all day, but, when
first starting, sometimes had to blip the gas to get it to charge and get
the light to go out. One thing I did notice though is that the Delco put
out about 14.5 volts compared to the 13.5 of the Lucas. Lights were
brighter, and the engine cranked faster and started quicker.

As they say, a picture is worth 1000 words. Here are some photos of the




Text and photos courtesy John Lewis


Solution #2-

by Ashfaq Ali

RRO mailing list



The conversion covered in this article for RR up to ’92 model year – when serpentine belt came into production. Of course you can still do the conversion even if you serpentine arrangement, you’ll need a different type of pulley.

This alternator is found on late model GM truck with HEI and fuel injection. The computer for HEI requires a good, clean source of power so that’s why I chose this model alternator. It puts out 100-130 amp at idle depending on load. Most alternators need to be “excited” by revving up to 1000 or higher rpm in order to activate the field and output higher current. At idle I turned on both windscreen defroster, lights on Hi beam, heater blower on high and the alternator put out about 100 amps approx. My old unit used to squeal when it experienced a high load!

Basically you’ll need a longer upper bracket and a longer belt. Any competent alternator shop can hook up for you the “Repair harness” to your wires. Technically you can do all the work yourself if you’re comfortable with wiring and reading schematics. There is a simple schematic on the back of your “Owner’s manual” that should suffice if you don’t have a repair manual for your rig. You’ll need to make up a top bracket like the picture. I’m also showing the colors for the wires: slate to harness white, brown to harness brown. The upper bracket was made out of a 1”x1/8” steel. I heated up at the right place then put a twist and a bend in it so that it lines up with the upper bolt on the unit. A slotted hole is used for adjusting the belt tension.

An important thing to remember is that the new pulley must be EXACTLY the same diameter as the old one. I’m referring to the diameter of the belt contact surface not the actual diameter of the bore. Smaller pulley = faster tach and vice versa. If you use too narrow of a belt, then your tach will read higher as well! So belt thickness does matter. I found that Gates Rubber company has all my belts and they’re very cheap. You can find them in any industrial parts house and some auto parts stores. Incidentally, I use Gates rubber for everything, including couple of hoses!

Parts list:

CAS 130 model 7973 – Alternator 105 amp alternator

WAI 46-1803 – Repair harness

Longer top bracket (home made. Just heat up and bend and twist!)

Longer belt – Gates Rubber 10A0685.


image002 ali alt.jpg (122469 bytes)   image0031 ali alt.jpg (100584 bytes)   image004 ali alt.jpg (111197 bytes)  



And... a third version of the Delco Conversion... Thanks Trent-


-Trent and his Frequently Immobilized Safari



Installing the newer style Delco alternator in a 1993 4.2 Range Rover.

Parts: Socket/Pigtail S-604 Delco Alternator 321-1086 GM#10463624

My Morrelli alternator reluctantly died after 10 yrs life. One evening the engine began to sputter badly and the headlights went dim. Regardless, I drove it for 50 to 55 miles before arriving home. After pricing the replacements at Rovers North I decided to try the Delco solution posted at jpurnell.com. Unlike Johns examples the Delco I purchased (US$ 94.00) required using a CS style pigtail. Make sure you get a 4 wire pigtail as many of the CS style clips only feature 3. The clip cost US$ 17.00.

I removed the Morrelli with the intent of swapping its pulley wheel for the Delco's. This was easy. It allowed me to use my original serpentine belt and solved the problem that the Delco size wheel caused. My next step was to seat the Delco in however its hinge clearance was smaller by an 1/8 in. I shaved it using a benchgrinder and it bolted right in. I also extended the stock alternator arm bracket by bolting another 'J' style arm to it. Instead of heating and bending the arm I found that using to 3/4 inch spacers worked best for me.

Wiring up the Delco meant ID'ing the PLF/IS connections on the clip and the pigtail. When assembling, F (field) & I (ignition) are the same pin. Here's how it went:

1. P gets wired to the white rover wire which feeds the tach. 2. L & I/F get joined to connect to the yellow rover wire. 3. S gets bold to stud on the back of the alt along with the 1/2 inch braided rover wire.

I used solder to mate the leads and Xtreme brand tape for sealing. Amazing stuff that Xtreme tape, only bonds to itself.

Once assembled I reconnected the battery, plugged in the radio code, and viola! A cheap replacement that can be found just about anywhere you are in the US. On the down side I'm told that I won't get the lifespan out of it that I did with the Morrelli. Apparently Delco makes cheap and nasty. I was also told there would be a faint whine when it was taxed with a heavy load, although I haven't heard it yet.



Solution#4 Michael Slade

For Pictures: Michael Slade's Delco, and a Volvo Truck Alt


I removed my alternator today while making room to work on the hose replacement. Looked for some numbers and this is all I found on it.

I *believe* that this is a GM alternator.

210237027 96A 60364 12V NEG

If anyone wants to look this up and see what it is, be my guest.

The only adaptation it needs is a 1/4 inch shim between the rear of the rear-most lower mounting ear and the bracket. It comes with a V-belt pully so if you have a multi-groove it will need to be swapped (which I did).

The electrical connection is very simple, it has 4-wires, only two of which are used. I forgot to write down which I used and where they went, but the tach and charge circuit work perfectly.

Add this to the collective database.



	There's also a conversion to a Bosch 120Amp alternator. Here's the link.


	It sounds like it isn't as hard as the Delco to install, but the big thing on
these is that they need more grease, which is an extra step. That site also has
a writeup on the Delco if you're interested.

	Hope this helps!

	-- Josh

And yet another successful Delco Conversion...

I've said it before, I will say it again...on V-belted Rangies the 89 Eagle Medallion Delco drops right onto the original mount and belts right up. You need an extended tensioner if you feel the need for one - ran mine for over a year without and had no issues with the belt loosening.

No fancy brackets, no BS - bolts right up and connects up. The only mod required is a wire to one of the diodes for a tach signal - and that's literally 2 minutes with a soldering iron.




More Delco and High Output Alternator Options:



OEM style Replacement Info:
Subject: Re: [RR] interchangable parts
To: rangie-l@bigyellowdesign.com

In a message dated 12/10/2002 6:03:42 PM Eastern Standard Time, Tihpty@aol.com writes: 

Hi all does any one out there know if an alternator from an 90 RR will fit on 
a 89 RR? Any good place to get a used cheap alternator? The brushes on mine 
are gone cannot find any place to order just brushes.. Thanks all Thurston

Auto Zone lists the 89 and 90 RR models with the same replacement 
alternator; part# 14889, the price is $179.95.  AutoZone.com   

Larry Mac 
90 RRC 





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